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Hi Mark,
I guess that could be a million things where electrics are concerned.
You could use a gauge or testing light and trace from the batter / ignition down the circuit path and see where the ‘signal’ stops (which is pretty much what an auto electrician will do). Quite a laborious task….
I’ll pop your query into the next Newsletter and see if anyone has better advice or recommendations for you.Old post, and you’ve probably got it fixed, but I’ll reply anyway..
No.1, Battery! The most important things about a battery are a carrying handle, and a big red sticker saying something like ‘Lightning Box 9000’, etc..
Test light would be best. Hook up the battery, and turn on various circuits and check for 12v at the relevant fuses. Write down the results so you don’t forget.
You need to see 12v (one side of the coil is 12v and the other, -ve, is grounded through the points when they are open) at your coil when you turn on the ignition, and you should see a spark when you open and close the points at their contacts (or short across them with a screwdriver).
If that’s working, assume that the ignition side is ok, assuming the coil is good and the plug hoses are ok.
Next is fuel, is it fresh, is it clean, is it getting to the ‘fuel make it happener'(..ok, carb) when you crank the motor? On a vehicle, clean fuel is a must. I’d be running several disposable inline fuel filters, unless the tank and fuel lines are spotless inside.
How about the carb, is the float level ok, is the needle valve free from blockages. Do you see a spray of fuel when you pump the gas pedal?
Spark, fuel and air is all it needs to bring the thunder!
If you read this, let us know if its running..
Cheers,
Steve
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